Breathing Paint Fumes - What's at Risk and How to Eliminate Paint Fumes From Your Air

 Paint is a relatively easy and inexpensive way to give a room or home a quick makeover. But what do you risk health wise by inhaling paint fumes and how can you eliminate them?
 
What you risk depends on the paint that was used. Oil paint or any paint that contains volatile organic chemicals has elements in it that evaporate easily into the air. Examples are solvents, thinners that maintain an even consistency, and drying agents that help the paint dry faster. These are often the ingredients that off gas and can make paint fumes so harmful.
 
You may first notice a headache, watery or burning eyes or nose, dry throat, light headedness, dizziness, or nausea. This is your body's way of saying get me out of here and away from these paint fumes! Generally these symptoms will disappear if you are only exposed to the fumes for a very short time. But often paint will off gas fumes for weeks, forcing you and all who live in the newly painted space to continue to inhale these fumes over a long period of time.
 
Young children are particularly vulnerable to these fumes because their respiration is comparatively fast, and their bodies are smaller which means their bodies are subjected to much more of the paint fumes than a healthy adult. Pregnant mothers also risk harm to the developing fetus, and continued exposure can interfere with normal growth and development. Older adults are also more at risk many times because of pre-existing conditions such as heart problems, respiratory conditions such as asthma or bronchitis, and/or an immune system that is in some way compromised.
 
There are paints available now that contain low and even no volatile organic chemicals. They are more expensive, but certainly worth the extra money for the health advantages they provide. But if you've moved into an apartment or newly constructed home, you may not have control over the paint that was used, and unless you act, you and your family may in fact be forced to just live in this unhealthy environment.
 
A high efficiency particle arresting (abbreviated as HEPA) air purifier that has a filter that specifically targets and removes these fumes can clear the air and make the air quality in your home healthy again. How does it do this? It is designed to run 24 hours a day to continuously removing these paint fumes from your air as soon as they off gas.
 
By opting for a HEPA air purifier you also get the added advantage of a cleaner that can remove other household particulates that may have resulted from new construction or a home makeover. This filter by definition is designed to remove normal household pollutants such as household dust, dust mites, mold and mildew spores, pollen, pet dander, bacteria and viruses all as small as .3 microns.
 
The best of these air cleaners contain 4 filters built into one easy-to-change canister, each with a different purpose making it a powerful yet compact and very efficient solution to removing paint fumes from your air.

Paint

Breathing Paint Fumes - What's at Risk and How to Eliminate Paint Fumes From Your Air

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Choosing Paint Sheen - Flat, Satin, Eggshell, Semi-gloss, & Gloss

Choosing paint can be confusing at first as there are so many paints on the market. But with a little understanding of the different types of paint, you will quickly become a paint finish expert!

The most common types of paint are: Flat, satin or eggshell, semi-gloss, and gloss.

Paint

What is Paint Sheen?
Paint sheen is the level of glossiness in paint. In other words, high gloss paint will make your walls look somewhat shiny while a flat paint won't have any shine. This is important for you because certain sheen paints a better for certain rooms in your home. For example, flat paint conceals scratches and other pre existing wall imperfections well, so it would be a good choice for hallway walls in a household with children. Read below to learn about each paint sheen type.

Flat Paint

  • Commonly used on most walls
  • Lowest sheen
  • Smooth, matte finish
  • Non-reflective
  • Conceals wall imperfections
  • Best for painting uneven surfaces or drywall

Satin or Eggshell
  • Low-luster
  • Slight sheen
  • Brings warmth and depth to a room
  • Easier to clean than compared to flat paint

Semi-Gloss
  • Very durable
  • Easiest to clean
  • Does NOT conceal imperfections
  • Often used in kitchens and bathrooms
  • Also frequently used in children's bedrooms

Gloss
  • Most durable of all paints
  • Highest sheen
  • Used for doors being that it is so durable
  • Good for trimming baseboard and door frames

Additional Considerations: Oil or Latex Paint?
Most paints come with a base option of oil or latex. Your decision will be based on several factors such as what surface you will be painting and what room you will be applying the paint to.

Oil Paint

  • Better Abrasion resistance
  • Higher gloss
  • More durable then latex
  • Smoother application than latex
  • Seals stains well
  • Harder to clean up after using oil based paint

Latex Paint
  • More popular because It's easier to clean up, less odor, and overall easier to manage
  • Water Based
  • Fast drying
  • Easy to apply
  • Resists yellowing, fading and mildew
  • Good for metal surfaces
  • Best bet for kitchens, bathrooms and laundry rooms

Choosing Paint Sheen - Flat, Satin, Eggshell, Semi-gloss, & Gloss

Marcy Tate is a content writer for Networx.com and has been working in the home improvement industry for over 10 years.

At Networx.com, we connect you with local, professional contractors who are screened by us and reviewed by you. Need help with your painting project? Make sure you click this link to Painting Networx to find a reliable, local, professional, licensed Painter in your area and to receive free quotes for your painting project.

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What Color Eye Shadow Works with Green Eyes? How to Choose Makeup Colors Perfectly

Do you know how to create beautiful, stunning eyes that really pop? Do you want the first thing people see when they look at you be your beautiful green eyes? The real secret to makeup is to complement what you already have naturally. This is especially true with eye shadow. The colors you choose can make all the difference.

The eyes are one of the first things that are noticed when you look at a person. They are the focal point that can be beautifully accented in many different ways. Eye makeup defines the eyes even more and you can be as creative as you like. However, there are certain colors that you can use to really make green eyes stand out to the world.

Makeup

Colors, Colors, Colors

So what shades can you put on your green eyes to make them stand out? Despite what you may have heard, avoid greens. All green eye shadow does is camouflage your gorgeous eyes. To make your eyes stand out, you need a shade that contrasts yet complements your green eye shade.

Some great color ideas for green eyes include:

o Plums

o Purple

o Violet

Don't be afraid to experiment with bolder, brighter colors. If you have light skin, you will want to go with a brown-hued eyeliner instead of black or even a plum or purple shade of eyeliner.

Put the color eyeliner in the corners of your bottom eyelash area then line the whole top lashes with the same color. Next try a light color eye shadow and put it on your brow bone area then a darker shade on your lid.

There are so many different types of products available today that you are not limited to what type and colors you use. Now you can accessorize your eyes with a beautiful array of powders, creams and glittery dustings. Also note that Almay has a line of eye makeup specifically for green eyes that you might want to try out.

Eye Makeup Application Tips

When applying your eye shadow, the proper technique can create that 'pop' more than the actual makeup color. So take the time to learn the proper application process to get the most from your eye makeup.

Traditional eye shadow powders are very easy to use with small applicator brushes and foam pads. For a dimensional look, blend two colors of powder or one color of powder on top of a cream shadow base. You might choose to use your own brushes instead of the brushes and applicators that come in the packaging of makeup. This way you can have longer brush handles and more control over the application.

With cream-based eye shadows, remember that less really is more. The cream shadows generally come in small squeeze tubes that really enhance the look of your eyes with a light application across the lid, reaching up to your brows if you wish. You may use a small tipped brush or a Q-tip to help you apply the crème properly.

Running or 'melting' eye shadow - Melting eye shadow is a problem for many women, but there is a way to make it 'stick' a little longer. If you use a damp eye shadow brush and apply a layer of face powder to your lids and allow setting; the shadow will stay in place for the day.

Eye Makeup Safety Tips

The eyes are also a very sensitive part of the body. It's very easy to get infections in the eye and to do so can affect your eyesight permanently.

You should never share eye makeup this could cause eye infections. Try not to get makeup in your eyes, if you do rinse them out as quickly as possible with warm water. Be extra careful if you were contact lenses.

Eye Care

The right eye shadow won't matter when your eyes are puffy, swollen or red. You need to know how to take care of this delicate area of the eye so that your green eyes always look their best. Below are some basic eye care tips that will help your eyes look hot both day and night.

1. Get enough sleep at night.

2. Drink lots of water each day.

3. Avoid salty foods that cause you to retain water.

4. Certain moisturizers not designed for the eye area can create puffiness.

5. Before applying eye make up, soothe puffy eyes with a metal spoon held under cold water for a few minutes and then gently pressed onto the eye area.

6. Cool cucumber slices on the eyes at the end of the day are a great soothing technique.

7. Elevate your head while you sleep if you tend to wake up with 'bags under your eyes'.

8. Always remove your eye makeup completely before going to bed.

9. Avoid using harsh chemicals to remove your eye makeup.

10. Keep contacts cleaned and changed regularly.

Following these steps can keep your eyes looking fresh and young so they will be even more beautiful when you expertly apply your makeup.

Importance of Removing Eye Makeup

It is vital to remove all makeup before going to bed at night. It is needed to keep your skin healthy. If you leave makeup on your face it could lead to clogged pores and dull looking skin, but leaving eye makeup on can lead to infection occurring in the eyes.

It can also cause you to have red irritated eyes. No matter how tired you are always take a few minutes to remove the makeup for your own benefit. If the area around your eyes become irritated you could begin to have an allergic reaction in this area. Not only could your eyes become red, but you could also experience pain and itching of the eyes. Repeatedly applying makeup to already irritated skin will make things much worse.

Of course, removing eye makeup is the hardest of all makeup to remove. However, there are a few tips that can help in this area. They are listed below.

* Vaseline

* Olive oil

* Cold cream

* Baby oil

Whichever method you use to remove eye makeup, you can still follow the same basic directions. Take a cotton ball with the cleaning product and gently wipe over the eye lids, then if needed you can use a warm damp washcloth to remove the cleaning product.

What Color Eye Shadow Works with Green Eyes? How to Choose Makeup Colors Perfectly

Simon Petch is a successful writer and Internet Publisher providing valuable tips, advice and product reviews on all aspects of beauty [http://www.no1-in-beauty.com/] care including reviews of womens perfume [http://www.no1-in-beauty.com/womens_perfume.htm] and mens cologne [http://www.no1-in-beauty.com/mens_cologne.htm].

My Links : Cosmetics Plus Secret Natural Beauty Tips Facial Fack Mask

How To Paint A Wooden Boat

One of the great increasing mysteries of today's modern boatbuilding is the amount of hi-tech gobble-de-gook that the average home boat builder is expected to wade through when the time comes to paint the boat after the horrendous amount of sanding, fairing and hard work is (mostly) over and the fruits of your labour now require a shiny deep lustre that the painting now promises to bring. This part, to my mind at least, is one of the best parts of boatbuilding, the finish! (Well, at least the start of the finish!)

Painting a boat used to be a reasonably simple task. All one needed was a fine dry day, one of Dad's paintbrushes, some turps, a roll of masking tape, a bit of pink primer left over from the decorating and a half gallon of shiny blue enamel paint from the local hardware store...they were the days!

Paint

Not so today, my friends! The unsuspecting boat builder who toddles off to the local chandlery or superstore best be prepared for the very worst- not only will he (or she) face a huge financial onslaught on their wallet but a mind boggling array of hi-tech whiz wow balderdash that the (generally) uninformed shop assistant will proceed to throw in their general direction in the faint hope that you will give in under the stress and buy several litres of the latest polurethanicalslitheryaminomolecular goop that's just come in. For example, you'll be faced with trade names like 'Interlux Interthane coating'. I mean, come on, it sounds like a new space invaders game! This is bloody paint! There are many others but I'm sure you get the gist of what I'm saying.

Another example of the kind of thing that drives me nuts is that you can expect to buy several litres of a iso-cyanate two pack marine polyurethane paint only to be cheerfully told its illegal to spray it unless you have a proper licenced premises to do so, drone drone!! I suppose they have to make up new names to go with the new paint company policies of charging up to 0 a litre for some of these new fangled paints! What the hell have they discovered that's so expensive to put in this stuff? I was under the impression that paint was a few litres of linseed oil, turps, some drying agents and a few ounces of pigments for colour...can I really be so out of touch?

BACK TO BASICS

So, why do we paint wooden boats? Or any other boat for that matter? The first part of that question is easy. Boats look much smarter and better if they shine and gleam a bit... it's only human nature after all. The second part to that question is: We want to protect it. Ok, from what? Well, wood rots if you don't paint it, right? - wrong! Wood left to its own devices does not rot. Wood only rots as a result of its environment. There are multiple cases of how, plain untreated wood can last for centuries as long as it is in the correct environment. There are basically only a few elements that start wood rotting. Biological attack from spores, fungi, temperature, high humidity or total absorption, physical attack from marine borers and crustaceans that allow ingress to all the other elements aforementioned.

Don't let's forget that polluted waters can degrade timber to the point where it will rot....we'll add chemical attack to that list too. So, in view of all these very compelling reasons we protect our boat by painting it to coat it fully against these assaults.

PREPARATION OF TIMBER

The actual preparation of timber can cover a range of differing requirements. If your boat is a new build you won't have to go through many of the preparatory stages that an older boat may have to go through. With some forms of boatbuilding where a boat has been built by a different method such as strip planking or cold moulding, we paint the boat as if it were a fibreglass boat, due to the fact that either layers of fibreglass cover the timber or that the timber has been coated with epoxy that does not allow conventional paints to adhere to it properly. However, if we wish to protect bare timber then we use a different tack. Timber in its bare natural state has millions of thin hollow tubes running through it, constructed of cellulose in its natural form. We have to seal these tubes to prevent the ingress of water into them. Therefore we seal and coat the timber first of all.

The first thing we do is to clean and remove any loose and flaking or damaged paint plus any dirt that remains on the hull - sounds easy if you say it quick but it must be done! If necessary (and most times it is) degrease the hull using a proprietary paint degreaser after removing all dust preferably with a vacuum cleaner. Don't forget it won't be absolutely necessary to get all the hull back to bare wood just dry, clean, grease and dust free.

FILLING AND IMPERFECTIONS

Obviously, not many timber craft are perfect on the outside. There are many blemishes, cracks, imperfections and splits both large and small to deal with by filling them and sanding them flush before priming the boat. It's a bit of a chore but time spent here will reward you with a boat that will certainly look better plus have a longer life. Some folks fill these holes and imperfections in timber with epoxy filler but it is not a good idea. Sometime later, for example, when the boat has to undergo a repair, it will be the very devil of a job to remove the epoxy from a fastening hole. It's best to use some kind of proper timber filler that dries hard and fast but is never that hard that it can't be removed later on. For example, painter's glazing compound is a fairly hard setting soft paste that can be quickly applied then sanded and painted satisfactorily. Carvel boats usually have their seams filled fair with a special seam compound AFTER the boat has been primed. Once the boat has been filled and faired smooth and all dust removed we are ready to put some actual paint on. Remember, the difference between a professional paint job and an amateur is the PREPARATION!

WOOD PRESERVATIVE

There are two schools of thought about treating bare timber with wood preservatives. I've heard stories that primers and paints don't adhere to many of them. In my case, I have never personally had that happen to me, so I am generally in favour of using them. Nevertheless, I am convinced that in many cases where the paint refuses to stick to timber is because the wood has not properly dried out after application. There is a definite percentage of humidity level that every timber has (and most of them differ slightly) where paint of any description simply won't stick. It can be up to fifteen per cent in some timbers. Above all, ensure that your timber is dry enough to allow any paint or filler to adhere to it. Remember too that salt deposits on timber will readily contain water and keep it damp.... if your boat was in salty water wash it off in fresh before commencing painting. When and only when, your timber preservative is dry the next stage is:

PRIMER

The first coat of primer to go onto your hull is metallic grey primer. It is a good primer to use because it is made up of millions of microscopic flat metal (aluminium) plates that lie on top of each other giving water a very hard time to pass though it...Pink primer for example, has circular molecules of substances therefore allowing water to ingress a lot quicker...fact! Grey primers also contain certain oils and most have anti-mould agents contained within (biocides to you and I) We put two coats of grey primer above the waterline and three, no less, below it.

SOME OTHER OBSERVATIONS ABOUT PRIMERS

There are a whole world of paint primers out there and confusion about their qualities are very common. For basic dry timbers, the grey metallic primers are good as previously explained. Also many oil-based primers from well-known companies are also very good and will do the job perfectly well. Hi-build primers however must be approached with caution and I must say that I have never personally got on too well with them. Most of them contain Titanium Dioxide (that's talcum powder to us lot) and even when it is fully cured can absorb copious amounts of moisture that can prevent really good paint adhesion. To avoid this only paint hi-build primers on good clear dry days and avoid excessive atmospheric humidity levels. Then, as soon as is possible apply the topcoats to seal them in. Note too, that hi-build primers are a soft type of paint and can suffer badly from scuffing over stony or shingly beaches and even when launching from boat trailers. When sanding these primers remember that huge clouds of white dust are released so be aware of where you sand and wear appropriate safety masks.

TOPCOATS

Once again, there are many types to choose from. Let's get the two- packs out of the way first. TWO-PACK POLYURETHANES have to be applied over a two-pack epoxy undercoat first of all. They have a fantastic finish and that's fine but you must be absolutely sure that the timber underneath is not going to move because the paint cures so hard that it can and will crack (strip plankers and cold moulded boats are your best bet here...apart of course from glass boats). The primary reason is that timber constructed boats move or 'work' as it is known. You may well get away with it if your timber boat has been glassed from new....not glassed over later as a preventative method to stop leaks. Rarely boats treated thus dry out properly and are still susceptible to movement as the timber inside the glass either rots because it was wet or it dries out too much and shrinks. Also boats that have been chined properly, that is, strips of timber glued in between the planks instead of being caulked, stand a reasonable chance of not moving.

Ok, what else? One pack or single pack polyurethane paints can be a good choice for a topcoat...they are almost as glossy and as durable as the two-packs but not quite! They are however, less expensive and far easier to apply than the two-packs... there are a multitude of them out there, so a bit of research is required plus your own personal choice...I'm not going to get involved in a slanging match about which ones are the best! However, remember most major well-known paint manufacturer's products are usually ok! It's your call!

So next on my list are marine enamels. Once again, it pays to remember that anything with MARINE in front of it is usually expensive...a good place to avoid in this quest is the large hardware chain stores that sport one or two paints in this category and I've fallen for it myself before now. It's the Name we are looking for!

Even with decent quality marine enamels some of the whites have been known to yellow with age and the way round this is to buy the off-white colours such as cream or buff. My last choice in Marine enamels proper, is a relative newcomer...a water-based enamel. I personally have never used any but I have heard some good reports and there has to be a few advantages with them, quick cleanup for one and you can even drink the thinners!

ASSORTED CHOICES
There are a few types of paint systems that are different to the abovementioned and as usual they probably will draw a lot of flack from those types that love writing to the editor for some reason or the other. Mainly I suspect, because something isn't quite conventional. Each of the following paints has their different uses and attributes.

HOUSE PAINT ENAMELS

Over the years the quality of house paint enamels has been increasing dramatically to the point where many yachties I know paint their boats with it. It's a bit softer (and definitely cheaper) than most single pack polyurethanes and some colours, mostly the darker hues, tend to fade earlier than others. However, the fact remains that they can be an excellent choice especially if you own a small boat and don't mind repainting it every couple of years....cheap to buy, easy to apply!

WATER BASED ACRYLICS

A few years ago you wouldn't have dreamed of painting your boat with acrylic paint....it would have peeled off in great strips. That does not apply today however. My own boat, The NICKY J has been painted using Wattyl's Acrylic semi-gloss "CANE" and it is really amazing. I used gloss for the hull and semi-gloss for the decks over white epoxy primer single pack and it has been really good. Never once has it even looked like delaminating. I paint the boat once a year with a roller and it takes less than a day...and she's forty two feet long! It is yet another choice!

Well there's your main paint choices but I urge you to remember one thing...preparation is King... it will save you plenty of money in the long run, for sure.

HOW TO APPLY YOUR PAINT

There are of course, three main methods of applying your paints; Spraying, brushing and rollering. There's another that many people use, a combination of the last two, rolling and tipping, we'll deal with that one later.

Let's take a look at spraying. There are several pre-requisites for a decent spray job. These usually are a decent workshop complete with suction fans and half decent ventilation using good spray gear (cheapo underpowered stuff just doesn't cut the mustard) and most importantly, adequate and proper safety gear. There are always exceptions to the rule and there's one chap who works in Edge's boatyard outside in the weather and he does a fantastic job...imagine how much better he might be if he worked indoors!! You will also have to watch the weather, high humidity is not good and also where the overspray goes...not over anyone's car as is so often the case! A good excess of paint is lost and wasted in the process. If you have a driving need for you boat to look like your car then sprayings for you! Oh yeah, it quick(ish) too!

Brushing by hand can yield incredible results if you are patient and also know what you are doing. I've seen boats that at first glance look like they have been sprayed only to find out that they were hand painted by brush.......Dust free atmosphere and bloody good brushes (I mean expensive) are an absolute must here.

Last of all, rollering especially the 'roll and tip' method. This requires two people working together as a team. One rolls the paint on thinly and the other follows closely with a decent brush and 'tips' out the bubbles left behind by the roller - unbelievably good finishes can be obtained by this method.

A word of warning, no matter which method you use. Don't be tempted to retouch runs or sags in the paint or you will ruin the finish....wait until the paint has fully dried then deal with it! It's tempting but paint always seems to gel quicker than you would think!

A SUMMARY

There are many facets to the successful painting of a boat. We can't be good at all of them and you have to choose the method most suited to you own particular capabilities. A lot depends on the facilities that you have available at your disposal. Some people have the garden to work in others may have huge sheds and even access to a warehouse! I will say that a few basic rules apply to painting even the smallest boat. Often, too much, too clever or too sophisticated is often detrimental to what you are trying to achieve.

I have seen boats that cost twenty grand to paint and they were just really average...why? Wrong choice of painter, that's why. If you are going to choose a painter it's not a crime to ask him to show you some examples of his work. If he's any good there should be plenty...there are plenty of chancers and cowboys about, rest assured. All boats, every single one of them will need retouching or even a repaint within years. Just how long you get for your money is the trick. Unless you put your freshly painted boat in a museum or garage and lock it away you can bet that from day one, it will collect nicks, dings, scratches and scars, it's inevitable. Beware the painter who tells you, 'yes it will be ten grand, but it'll outlast you and me'. The need for repainting is directly proportional to how badly the boat is treated over the years. The only way of keeping your boat pristine and perfect is never to actually put it in that dirty old water once it's done! Be realistic about your own abilities and your expectations. Simple can be better in many cases.

A SIMPLE FORMULA FOR CALCULATING HOW MUCH PAINT YOU NEED (FOR ONE COAT)

This is interesting if not exactly exact! But it gets very close indeed. This is applicable to brushing and rolling only NOT spraying. There's a different formula for that and I don't know it!
THE FORMULA
ONE COAT = The boat's length overall x the beam x 0.85
Divided by square feet covered per litre listed on the paint can instructions.

If you can't work it out the paint manufacturer will tell you if you ring the company hotline.

Over the years, wooden boats have survived the elements in spite of very crude and primitive forms of paint. Many early vessels were simply daubed in pitch, bitumen, turps and beeswax. An early Thames barge had survived for over a hundred years in perfect condition as she was originally used as a bitumen tanker!! The dark brown shiny finish was the most perfect example of preserved wood that I have ever seen. One of the most interesting boats I ever saw was painted with fence paint...the owner reckoned he'd only ever painted it once in thirty years! Another old boat builder I knew once told me the secret of painting a wooden boat was to paint it with as many coats of paint that you could afford!

How To Paint A Wooden Boat

Terry Buddell is a freelance writer, boat builder and marine surveyor who lives on board his own yacht the "Nicky J Miller" with his partner Nicky in Gladstone, Queensland Australia. Terry has designed a series of boats that he sells from his website on the net and also built his own 42' yacht which he refers endearingly to as "his filthy old lugger'. Terry writes for several boating magazines and specializes in the " How to do it " kind of article using practical ideas and basic common sense! Terry is only too happy to help people who wish to build their own boat from a dinghy to a yacht and his contact details can be found on his website http://www.dolphinboatplans.com

If you liked this article there are more in a similar vein to be seen on http://www.dolphinboatplans.com

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Tips for Learning How to Apply Makeup

Learning how to apply makeup takes a little bit of time and a whole lot of practice. Little girls usually start teaching themselves to this well before they're old enough to actually wear makeup. When they're first learning to put on makeup, they tend to look more like clowns than the glamorous movie stars they're trying to look like.

As the girls get older, they start to learn that when makeup is involved, more isn't always better. Though learning it does take a lot of practice, there are some things you can do to help even out your makeup learning curve.

Makeup

Makeup Application Tips

Before you learn how to apply makeup, you need to know what kind of makeup you're applying. There's makeup for the face, eyes, eyebrows and lips. You certainly don't have to use makeup on all of your facial features, but you can. If you decide to use facial makeup, or concealer, make sure to get a concealer shade that matches your face. If you're concealer is too dark or too pale, it will stand out. If you have nice skin, you can bypass concealer or, you can apply it to areas that contain blemishes.

After you've applied facial makeup, you need to move onto your eyes. You should always apply your eye make in this order: eye shadow, eyeliner, mascara. When you apply your makeup, relax your eyelids and look down. This technique will smooth out your eyelids, which will help you apply your makeup more evenly. Move your eye shadow brush from the inside of your eye to the outside of your eye. This will help even out your eye shade color.

Eyeliner will help your eyes standout. However, if you apply too much, you'll look like a raccoon. When you apply eyeliner, use your pointer finger to pull the skin around your eye taught. This will make your eye smooth and allow you to evenly apply the liner.

When you apply makeup, especially when you're just learning this, you should have plenty of Q-tips nearby. The Q-tips will help you wash away or even out any mistakes you may make while learning how to apply makeup.

Tips for Learning How to Apply Makeup

Learn more about makeup and cosmetics by visiting Makeup Joy. We have articles on everything from MAC makeup to estee lauder makeup.

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Home Improvement Tips to Raise Your Home's Value

Everybody would want to have some renovations and improvements on their homes. Aside from aesthetic and practical benefits, these can also make your beloved homes much more valuable.

When we talk of home renovations, the first things that come to mind are major reconstructions like increasing the floor area or having a total landscape makeover. These projects would greatly increase your home's value but you would also need huge amounts of money to accomplish these. Most people do not have that kind of money that's why it's better for them to concentrate on small home improvements that are wallet-friendly. These minor renovations will add significant value to your homes as well.

Paint

You'd be surprised to know the importance of cleaning. Having a clean house makes it more valuable. The longevity and durability of the house and all its components are greatly increased when cleaned regularly. Through regular and proper cleaning, the wear and tear process significantly slows down.

In cleaning your homes, there is no need to buy expensive chemical cleaners which also has the potential to be a health hazard. A simple mixture of citrus extract and white vinegar can make any surface squeaky clean, eliminate bad odor and kill bacteria and other harmful microbes.

A simple paint job works wonders too. A brand new coating of paint on your house's exterior and interior would make it look almost brand new. Having your floors replaced with brand new ones is a good alternative as well. These projects add value to your homes dramatically.

Whether you opt for a major overhaul or a minor reconstruction, the selection of materials to be used is very crucial and should not be overlooked. Make sure you use materials with A-1 quality; this will ensure success in your home improvement and transform your homes to an almost brand new state.

The paperwork should also be accomplished properly especially if you're doing a major reconstruction to avoid future problems. It is advisable to consult or employ the services of a contractor as well. Professional help is highly recommended to ensure a smooth and hassle-free major renovation project.

Home Improvement Tips to Raise Your Home's Value

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